Climbing
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#1300 - 04/21/06 04:57 PM Lets start at the very beggining...
thrashman Offline
Leader

Registered: 04/18/06
Posts: 39
Loc: virginia is for losers!
How did some of you guys start leading? I am looking for an example by which I might follow.
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CLIMBING ISN'T EVERYTHING...IT IS THE ONLY THING!

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#1301 - 04/24/06 12:35 PM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: thrashman]
ecivey Offline
Just tying in

Registered: 04/24/06
Posts: 1
Loc: Tucson, Az
Ok, so there is not a "correct" answer to this question, but here's my version. I've only been climbing for about 6 months (so I'm not expert), and I was pretty intimidated of leading at first. The first several times I climbed outside (first 2 months were in the gym), I only tried leading a couple of times and was scared poopless. And I didn't really NEED to lead because my main partner would do it all for me. Then I went out with a guide one day to climb some harder stuff on toprope, and after a couple of hard topropes (for me - 5.10 or 11) he made me try to lead something at my toprope limit - which happened to be a 5.11b (at Reimer's Ranch, Tx) I had just done 3 times. Because I was then tired, I ended up not being able to make the crux move and was forced to learn how to fall a few times. The main point I took away from that day was this: try to lead everything - even if toproping is an option. The only way to develop your lead head is to lead. Falling is part of the game, just make sure your gear is good. The added benefit of leading at your limit is that you can develop your climbing and lead games at the same time. And you might be surprised at how well you can climb when you're at the sharp end of the rope!

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#1302 - 05/30/06 03:32 PM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: ecivey]
thrashman Offline
Leader

Registered: 04/18/06
Posts: 39
Loc: virginia is for losers!
Thanks for the beta. I actually went sport climbing for the first time last weekend. All went well, and I can relate to being scared poopless. I still havn't fallen yet (I was fortunate to start on easier routes like 5.6's and 5.7's) but I plan to "practice" falling in the gym.
Thanks
_________________________
CLIMBING ISN'T EVERYTHING...IT IS THE ONLY THING!

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#1303 - 07/20/06 09:27 PM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: thrashman]
CORECLIMBER Offline
Just tying in

Registered: 07/20/06
Posts: 1
I have been climbing for 12 years... and falling in a gym does nothing for the fear outside... the best thing you can do is look for 10's or low 11's that are over hung... that way the first falls are in the air and not on the face.
i have been stuck in a gym for a few months and when i went back outside i had the fear again... it goes away the more you fall... and becomes....... fun-ish hahaha!

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#1304 - 08/12/06 05:39 PM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: CORECLIMBER]
thrashman Offline
Leader

Registered: 04/18/06
Posts: 39
Loc: virginia is for losers!
That makes sense...thanks!
_________________________
CLIMBING ISN'T EVERYTHING...IT IS THE ONLY THING!

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#1305 - 09/18/06 10:37 AM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: thrashman]
TheMadMilkman Offline
Just tying in

Registered: 09/18/06
Posts: 2
Sometimes you just have to do it. I did my first lead by just getting on the rock and doing it. No planning, forethought, or anything. I just did it.

What's harder than that, though, is getting your confidence back after taking a nasty fall. I decked once because my belayer pulled me off (never climbed with her again after that) and it took months before I could convince myself to lead. When I finally did it was the same thing. I didn't plan to do it, talk myself up, etc. The guy I was climbing with just said 'you want to try this?' so I roped up and did it.

Sometimes trying to get into the mental game is what keeps you from being in the mental state you need to. Climbing is natural. Just get on the rock and go.

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#1306 - 10/10/06 09:59 AM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: TheMadMilkman]
L0k3y Offline
Just tying in

Registered: 10/10/06
Posts: 3
i've been leading for a few months now but hadn't led anything that i couldn't finish. i just took my first big indoor lead whip last night. it was about 20 feet but it was well worth it. just make sure your knot is tied, your harness is tight and you'll be fine. (maybe a bit short of breath)

as far as growing the stones to lead in the first place, learn to lead belay first. you'll learn how to feed rope smoothly and how to clip and not back clip or z clip. other than that enjoy the rush and don't be afraid to say take.

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#2988 - 09/30/09 07:47 PM Re: Lets start at the very beggining... [Re: L0k3y]
yupperclimber Offline
Just tying in

Registered: 09/30/09
Posts: 2
Well i started climbing in the worst way that you can, the way that everyone advises you not to climb. I picked up some used gear from ebay, a used 9 mm rope and some carabiners. i had climbed a fair amount in gyms so i knew enough to keep me alive, but im suprised thinking back on it. I just hooked some runners onto the bolts and had a partner and we would go climbing. Yes i lead climbed with a used 9 mm rope and i lived. Since then i did invest in good gear and now i love climbing as much as i can. i didnt find the fear too bad and you get used to it

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