http://forums.climbing.com/photopost Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:35:28 -0500 PhotoPost Pro 6.02 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3917 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3917" target="_blank"><img title="Classic-253-conn-topo.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/Classic-253-conn-topo.jpg" alt="Classic-253-conn-topo.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Conn Diagonal (5.7), Black Hills, South Dakota By Dan Dewell Photos by Andrew Burr Exposed granite goodness in the historic needles “We used pitons, an 80-foot rope, tennis shoes, and we didn’t have harnesses, so we tied the rope around our waists. We were scared to death,” says Jan Conn about this issue’s “Classic Climb,” Conn Diagonal, which she and her husband, Herb, put up on August 26, 1953. “The route is one of our favorites, and certainly the longest.” This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of two striking formations bordering the northeast side of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy. Like most classic climbs, the Conn tells a history of adventure and exploration. Of the roughly 220 first ascents the Conns made in the Black Hills, many climbers regard the iconic route as one of the boldest, helping to spawn a strict ground-up, all-free, hand-drill-only ethic that has come to define the area. The first pitch of the Conn follows a diagonalling flake system requiring stemming and laybacks, with larger gear placements (bring cams up to 4”) and a mid-height piton, to a bolted anchor. To reduce rope drag, sling horns with shoulder-length runners. Conn Diagonal gets its strongest acclaim from its exposed ropelengths — especially the second-pitch traverse, which eats gear of all sizes. This 45-foot voyage crosses on jugs, while your feet smear over a giant vertical drop (a fall from here would leave the second hanging in the void). “We knew we were committed to the summit after the traverse [pitch two], because there was no rappelling after that point,” says Herb Conn. Finish the second pitch in a hallway-esque slot, by building an anchor with 1/2” to 3/4” gear, and a 4” cam. From the belay, work up the hallway to a horizontal seam, where you’ll add your last piece of gear, then veer left into the bombay chimney. Belay from inside a large pothole at the top — undoubtedly one of the hairiest “book-ends” to an adventurous route established by the pioneering Conns. &gt; Guidebooks Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota (1999), by John Page; A Poorperson’s Guidebook (1996), by Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman &gt; Guide Services Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service; (605) 484-7585, sylvanrocks.com &gt; Gear Granite Sports; (605) 574-2121, granitesportsonline.com Laserguns Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:15:29 -0500 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3918 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3918" target="_blank"><img title="cocktailnapkin-conntopo.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/cocktailnapkin-conntopo.jpg" alt="cocktailnapkin-conntopo.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Conn Diagonal (5.7), Black Hills, South Dakota By Dan Dewell Photos by Andrew Burr Exposed granite goodness in the historic needles “We used pitons, an 80-foot rope, tennis shoes, and we didn’t have harnesses, so we tied the rope around our waists. We were scared to death,” says Jan Conn about this issue’s “Classic Climb,” Conn Diagonal, which she and her husband, Herb, put up on August 26, 1953. “The route is one of our favorites, and certainly the longest.” This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of two striking formations bordering the northeast side of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy. Like most classic climbs, the Conn tells a history of adventure and exploration. Of the roughly 220 first ascents the Conns made in the Black Hills, many climbers regard the iconic route as one of the boldest, helping to spawn a strict ground-up, all-free, hand-drill-only ethic that has come to define the area. The first pitch of the Conn follows a diagonalling flake system requiring stemming and laybacks, with larger gear placements (bring cams up to 4”) and a mid-height piton, to a bolted anchor. To reduce rope drag, sling horns with shoulder-length runners. Conn Diagonal gets its strongest acclaim from its exposed ropelengths — especially the second-pitch traverse, which eats gear of all sizes. This 45-foot voyage crosses on jugs, while your feet smear over a giant vertical drop (a fall from here would leave the second hanging in the void). “We knew we were committed to the summit after the traverse [pitch two], because there was no rappelling after that point,” says Herb Conn. Finish the second pitch in a hallway-esque slot, by building an anchor with 1/2” to 3/4” gear, and a 4” cam. From the belay, work up the hallway to a horizontal seam, where you’ll add your last piece of gear, then veer left into the bombay chimney. Belay from inside a large pothole at the top — undoubtedly one of the hairiest “book-ends” to an adventurous route established by the pioneering Conns. &gt; Guidebooks Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota (1999), by John Page; A Poorperson’s Guidebook (1996), by Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman &gt; Guide Services Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service; (605) 484-7585, sylvanrocks.com &gt; Gear Granite Sports; (605) 574-2121, granitesportsonline.com Laserguns Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:15:29 -0500 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3914 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3914" target="_blank"><img title="Classic-253-conn-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/Classic-253-conn-1.jpg" alt="Classic-253-conn-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Conn Diagonal (5.7), Black Hills, South Dakota By Dan Dewell Photos by Andrew Burr Exposed granite goodness in the historic needles “We used pitons, an 80-foot rope, tennis shoes, and we didn’t have harnesses, so we tied the rope around our waists. We were scared to death,” says Jan Conn about this issue’s “Classic Climb,” Conn Diagonal, which she and her husband, Herb, put up on August 26, 1953. “The route is one of our favorites, and certainly the longest.” This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of two striking formations bordering the northeast side of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy. Like most classic climbs, the Conn tells a history of adventure and exploration. Of the roughly 220 first ascents the Conns made in the Black Hills, many climbers regard the iconic route as one of the boldest, helping to spawn a strict ground-up, all-free, hand-drill-only ethic that has come to define the area. The first pitch of the Conn follows a diagonalling flake system requiring stemming and laybacks, with larger gear placements (bring cams up to 4”) and a mid-height piton, to a bolted anchor. To reduce rope drag, sling horns with shoulder-length runners. Conn Diagonal gets its strongest acclaim from its exposed ropelengths — especially the second-pitch traverse, which eats gear of all sizes. This 45-foot voyage crosses on jugs, while your feet smear over a giant vertical drop (a fall from here would leave the second hanging in the void). “We knew we were committed to the summit after the traverse [pitch two], because there was no rappelling after that point,” says Herb Conn. Finish the second pitch in a hallway-esque slot, by building an anchor with 1/2” to 3/4” gear, and a 4” cam. From the belay, work up the hallway to a horizontal seam, where you’ll add your last piece of gear, then veer left into the bombay chimney. Belay from inside a large pothole at the top — undoubtedly one of the hairiest “book-ends” to an adventurous route established by the pioneering Conns. &gt; Guidebooks Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota (1999), by John Page; A Poorperson’s Guidebook (1996), by Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman &gt; Guide Services Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service; (605) 484-7585, sylvanrocks.com &gt; Gear Granite Sports; (605) 574-2121, granitesportsonline.com Laserguns Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:14:35 -0500 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3915 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3915" target="_blank"><img title="Classic-253-conn-diagonal.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/Classic-253-conn-diagonal.jpg" alt="Classic-253-conn-diagonal.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Conn Diagonal (5.7), Black Hills, South Dakota By Dan Dewell Photos by Andrew Burr Exposed granite goodness in the historic needles “We used pitons, an 80-foot rope, tennis shoes, and we didn’t have harnesses, so we tied the rope around our waists. We were scared to death,” says Jan Conn about this issue’s “Classic Climb,” Conn Diagonal, which she and her husband, Herb, put up on August 26, 1953. “The route is one of our favorites, and certainly the longest.” This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of two striking formations bordering the northeast side of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy. Like most classic climbs, the Conn tells a history of adventure and exploration. Of the roughly 220 first ascents the Conns made in the Black Hills, many climbers regard the iconic route as one of the boldest, helping to spawn a strict ground-up, all-free, hand-drill-only ethic that has come to define the area. The first pitch of the Conn follows a diagonalling flake system requiring stemming and laybacks, with larger gear placements (bring cams up to 4”) and a mid-height piton, to a bolted anchor. To reduce rope drag, sling horns with shoulder-length runners. Conn Diagonal gets its strongest acclaim from its exposed ropelengths — especially the second-pitch traverse, which eats gear of all sizes. This 45-foot voyage crosses on jugs, while your feet smear over a giant vertical drop (a fall from here would leave the second hanging in the void). “We knew we were committed to the summit after the traverse [pitch two], because there was no rappelling after that point,” says Herb Conn. Finish the second pitch in a hallway-esque slot, by building an anchor with 1/2” to 3/4” gear, and a 4” cam. From the belay, work up the hallway to a horizontal seam, where you’ll add your last piece of gear, then veer left into the bombay chimney. Belay from inside a large pothole at the top — undoubtedly one of the hairiest “book-ends” to an adventurous route established by the pioneering Conns. &gt; Guidebooks Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota (1999), by John Page; A Poorperson’s Guidebook (1996), by Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman &gt; Guide Services Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service; (605) 484-7585, sylvanrocks.com &gt; Gear Granite Sports; (605) 574-2121, granitesportsonline.com Laserguns Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:14:35 -0500 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3916 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3916" target="_blank"><img title="Classic-253-conn-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/Classic-253-conn-2.jpg" alt="Classic-253-conn-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Conn Diagonal (5.7), Black Hills, South Dakota By Dan Dewell Photos by Andrew Burr Exposed granite goodness in the historic needles “We used pitons, an 80-foot rope, tennis shoes, and we didn’t have harnesses, so we tied the rope around our waists. We were scared to death,” says Jan Conn about this issue’s “Classic Climb,” Conn Diagonal, which she and her husband, Herb, put up on August 26, 1953. “The route is one of our favorites, and certainly the longest.” This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of two striking formations bordering the northeast side of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy. Like most classic climbs, the Conn tells a history of adventure and exploration. Of the roughly 220 first ascents the Conns made in the Black Hills, many climbers regard the iconic route as one of the boldest, helping to spawn a strict ground-up, all-free, hand-drill-only ethic that has come to define the area. The first pitch of the Conn follows a diagonalling flake system requiring stemming and laybacks, with larger gear placements (bring cams up to 4”) and a mid-height piton, to a bolted anchor. To reduce rope drag, sling horns with shoulder-length runners. Conn Diagonal gets its strongest acclaim from its exposed ropelengths — especially the second-pitch traverse, which eats gear of all sizes. This 45-foot voyage crosses on jugs, while your feet smear over a giant vertical drop (a fall from here would leave the second hanging in the void). “We knew we were committed to the summit after the traverse [pitch two], because there was no rappelling after that point,” says Herb Conn. Finish the second pitch in a hallway-esque slot, by building an anchor with 1/2” to 3/4” gear, and a 4” cam. From the belay, work up the hallway to a horizontal seam, where you’ll add your last piece of gear, then veer left into the bombay chimney. Belay from inside a large pothole at the top — undoubtedly one of the hairiest “book-ends” to an adventurous route established by the pioneering Conns. &gt; Guidebooks Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota (1999), by John Page; A Poorperson’s Guidebook (1996), by Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman &gt; Guide Services Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service; (605) 484-7585, sylvanrocks.com &gt; Gear Granite Sports; (605) 574-2121, granitesportsonline.com Laserguns Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:14:35 -0500 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3844 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3844" target="_blank"><img title="october-gunslinger-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-gunslinger-obed.jpg" alt="october-gunslinger-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: stephen king library's gunslinger, 11+ Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:15:32 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3843 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3843" target="_blank"><img title="october-corrie-rage2-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-corrie-rage2-obed.jpg" alt="october-corrie-rage2-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: stephen king library's rage 12c, the lower 11a part Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:12:46 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3841 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3841" target="_blank"><img title="october-chris-rage2-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-chris-rage2-obed.jpg" alt="october-chris-rage2-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: stephen king library's rage 12c Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:11:48 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3842 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3842" target="_blank"><img title="october-corrie-rage-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-corrie-rage-obed.jpg" alt="october-corrie-rage-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: stephen king library's rage 12c Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:11:48 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3840 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3840" target="_blank"><img title="october-chris-rage1-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-chris-rage1-obed.jpg" alt="october-chris-rage1-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: look ma, no hands! stephen king library's rage 12c Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:11:47 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3839 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3839" target="_blank"><img title="october-locals-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-locals-obed.jpg" alt="october-locals-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: some locals we called mini and micro snuggle at the crag to stay warm Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:07:46 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3837 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3837" target="_blank"><img title="october-solsticecave-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-solsticecave-obed.jpg" alt="october-solsticecave-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: a killer 12a called solstice, steeeeeep! Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:07:45 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3838 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3838" target="_blank"><img title="october-color-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/october-color-obed.jpg" alt="october-color-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: nice fall colors Laserguns Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:07:45 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3691 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3691" target="_blank"><img title="trailer-lrc-theboy.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/trailer-lrc-theboy.jpg" alt="trailer-lrc-theboy.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Climbing at Little River Canyon in October Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:21:20 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3689 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3689" target="_blank"><img title="corrie-theboy-lrc.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/corrie-theboy-lrc.jpg" alt="corrie-theboy-lrc.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Climbing at Little River Canyon in October Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:21:19 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3690 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3690" target="_blank"><img title="lrc-concave.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/lrc-concave.jpg" alt="lrc-concave.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Climbing at Little River Canyon in October Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:21:19 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3688 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3688" target="_blank"><img title="travis-theodyseey.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/travis-theodyseey.jpg" alt="travis-theodyseey.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Travis goin' for it on the Odyessy, 5.12b Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:19:00 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3687 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3687" target="_blank"><img title="travis-STEEP_-theodyseey.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/travis-STEEP_-theodyseey.jpg" alt="travis-STEEP_-theodyseey.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Travis lower off after the Odyessy, 5.12b Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:18:59 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3685 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3685" target="_blank"><img title="crazyfungi-2-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/crazyfungi-2-obed.jpg" alt="crazyfungi-2-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Some crazy fungi growing on a dead tree Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:16:55 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3686 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3686" target="_blank"><img title="ourfriendsally-obed-y12.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/ourfriendsally-obed-y12.jpg" alt="ourfriendsally-obed-y12.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: A pretty salamander Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:16:55 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3684 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3684" target="_blank"><img title="travis-carnivore-obed-y12.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/travis-carnivore-obed-y12.jpg" alt="travis-carnivore-obed-y12.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Travis on the warm up Laserguns Wed, 4 Oct 2006 11:16:54 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3628 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3628" target="_blank"><img title="corrie-tuba-suma-3.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/corrie-tuba-suma-3.jpg" alt="corrie-tuba-suma-3.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: corrie cruising a steep 12a Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:58:08 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3627 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3627" target="_blank"><img title="corrie-tuba-suma-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/corrie-tuba-suma-2.jpg" alt="corrie-tuba-suma-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: corrie cruising a steep 12a Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:58:07 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3626 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3626" target="_blank"><img title="corrie-tuba-suma-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/corrie-tuba-suma-1.jpg" alt="corrie-tuba-suma-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Corrie cruisin a steep 12a Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:54:12 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3624 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3624" target="_blank"><img title="alex-double-ott1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/alex-double-ott1.jpg" alt="alex-double-ott1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Alex goin for it Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:31:41 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3622 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3622" target="_blank"><img title="little-lizard.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/little-lizard.jpg" alt="little-lizard.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: a tiny little green lizard<br /><br />1 comment Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:14:08 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3621 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3621" target="_blank"><img title="travis-double-ott.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/travis-double-ott.jpg" alt="travis-double-ott.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Travis hucks for a crimp Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:14:06 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3620 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3620" target="_blank"><img title="beautyberry-LRCanyon.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/605/thumbs/beautyberry-LRCanyon.jpg" alt="beautyberry-LRCanyon.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: The Beautyberry grows all over the canyon. Laserguns Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:14:04 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3580 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3580" target="_blank"><img title="bornonthe4th-obed-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/bornonthe4th-obed-1.jpg" alt="bornonthe4th-obed-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Corrie Eldred on a flash attemt of the mega-classic 5.13a Born on the 4th of July, Y12 Wall, Obed, TN Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:07:19 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3579 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3579" target="_blank"><img title="bornonthe4th-obed-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/bornonthe4th-obed-2.jpg" alt="bornonthe4th-obed-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Corrie Eldred on a flash attemt of the mega-classic 5.13a Born on the 4th of July, Y12 Wall, Obed, TN Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:07:17 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3578 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3578" target="_blank"><img title="bornonthe4th-obed-3.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/bornonthe4th-obed-3.jpg" alt="bornonthe4th-obed-3.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Corrie Eldred cuts loose in the roof on a flash attemt of the mega-classic 5.13a, Born on the 4th of July, Y12 Wall, Obed, TN. Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:04:59 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3577 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3577" target="_blank"><img title="crazyfungi-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/crazyfungi-obed.jpg" alt="crazyfungi-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Crazy fungi on a down tree, Obed, TN. Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:04:58 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3576 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3576" target="_blank"><img title="hanginggardens-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/hanginggardens-obed.jpg" alt="hanginggardens-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Kyle warming up on a fantastic slightly overhanging 5.11a with big jugs on the well named Herbivore, Obed, TN. Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:04:56 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3575 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3575" target="_blank"><img title="southclearcreek-obed.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/602/thumbs/southclearcreek-obed.jpg" alt="southclearcreek-obed.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: View of South Cleer Creek from above the Y12 Wall, Obed, TN. Laserguns Thu, 14 Sep 2006 09:04:55 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3553 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3553" target="_blank"><img title="sunshine-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/sunshine-2.jpg" alt="sunshine-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Bill enjoys a hidden classic on perfect golden stone Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:17:09 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3552 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3552" target="_blank"><img title="sunshine-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/sunshine-1.jpg" alt="sunshine-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: perfect golden stone Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:17:07 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3551 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3551" target="_blank"><img title="soaponarope-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/soaponarope-2.jpg" alt="soaponarope-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: soap on a rope - nice arete, gnarly slopey topout Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:17:06 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3550 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3550" target="_blank"><img title="soaponarope-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/soaponarope-1.jpg" alt="soaponarope-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Bill tuggin the soap on a rope - nice arete, gnarly slopey topout Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:17:05 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3549 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3549" target="_blank"><img title="sherman-photoroof.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/sherman-photoroof.jpg" alt="sherman-photoroof.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: rightside the sherman photo roof Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:12:14 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3548 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3548" target="_blank"><img title="rocktown-mainzone-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/rocktown-mainzone-1.jpg" alt="rocktown-mainzone-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Long pumpy travese at the main area Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:12:13 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3547 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3547" target="_blank"><img title="Laura-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/Laura-1.jpg" alt="Laura-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Laura on a Rocktown classic Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:12:12 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3546 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3546" target="_blank"><img title="happybrushing-asphalt.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/happybrushing-asphalt.jpg" alt="happybrushing-asphalt.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: the chatty crew enjoyin monday off, Labor Day 2006 Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:02:10 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3545 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3545" target="_blank"><img title="aspahaltboulder.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/aspahaltboulder.jpg" alt="aspahaltboulder.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: a classic on the asphalt boulder Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:02:09 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3544 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3544" target="_blank"><img title="the-hobbit.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/the-hobbit.jpg" alt="the-hobbit.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: The Hobbit - A classic problem with big moves and a slopey topout Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:02:08 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3542 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3542" target="_blank"><img title="thompsie-gash.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/thompsie-gash.jpg" alt="thompsie-gash.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: injury from the infamous Scoop problem Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:02:06 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3543 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3543" target="_blank"><img title="thompsie-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/567/thumbs/thompsie-2.jpg" alt="thompsie-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Thompsie on a classic problem at Rocktown Laserguns Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:02:06 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3490 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3490" target="_blank"><img title="highexposure-gunks-1.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/highexposure-gunks-1.jpg" alt="highexposure-gunks-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Getting to High Exposure is not an easy thing. Sure, the 20-minute stroll along the Gunks’ tree-lined Carriage Road is mellow: perfectly flat with views of the Hudson River Valley to your right, and the delicious Trapps cliffline on your left. But the true crux is not stopping to climb the slew of incredible lines you’ll pass on the way: CCK, Son of Easy O, Andrew, Coexistence, Arrow ... the cliff is stacked with unforgettable, plan-your-trip-around-this, once-in-a-lifetime classic routes. Still, keep on truckin’: These lines pale in comparison to High Exposure, the climb for which the term “classic” was seemingly coined. High E was first climbed in 1941, with a hemp rope and three soft-iron pitons for pro — a visionary achievement at the time. The route’s first ascentionists, immigrants Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner, were two of the great characters in North American climbing history. Wiessner’s fame derived from his incredible climbing prowess — he is credited with FAs of routes in the 5.11 range (in Saxony and the Dolomites) as early as the 1920s. Kraus, an orthopedic surgeon by trade, was the personal back doctor to JFK, and is credited with first making the connection between exercise and health! Small wonder that it took two such men to crack High E, which begins with a nice 5.5 pitch up a steep corner system to the mile-long Grand Traverse Ledge. Here, you’ll join the crowd (and, trust me, there will be a crowd) queuing up for the main event. It’s not uncommon to wait in line here for an hour or two, but the ledge is spacious, the views breathtaking, and the entertainment constant as climbers wobble up to the giant triangular roof 25 feet above and disappear around its right side via a balancy crux move. Above this lies the section for which High E is named: a forearm-pumping, slightly overhanging 60-foot headwall that juts out 200 feet above the forest floor and looks more like 5.11 than 5.6. The holds are big, however, and there is just enough pro; if you do whip, it’ll be into fresh air. Those who’ve climbed High E usually tout it as the best 5.6 on the planet. No arguments from me. -- Jim Thornburg Five Classics Near High Exposure: Directissima 5.9 Start near High Exposure, following a ramp out right to a corner then to the belay at a small ledge. Traverse left toward the nose, then to a small belay ledge. Take the arête to the GT ledge. Finish on High E. Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope 5.8 Start right of Updraft, climbing the face through some bulges and some crack to the GT ledge. Run through a roof slightly right, veering left toward the belay of Updraft. Traverse right to a face, then into a crack until you can jump out right near the top. Arrow 5.8 Begin right of Limelight and climb a face to the GT ledge. Pass a roof leading to a white face. First ascent by O'Neill and Rezucha in 1984. Limelight 5.7 Climb the face right of Red Pillar into right-facing flakes into the GT ledge. Climb into a shallow scoop through a roof to another scoop to a roof, then traverse left until you get to a crack. The crack will take you to the top. Doubleissima 5.10 Climb vertical cracks to the Directissima belay. Take a small seam straight up, then traverse right into a roof. Climb over the roof to the GT ledge. Follow the crack to the top. Rack Beta: Friends, small stoppers, RPs, and TCUs Laserguns Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:02:07 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3491 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3491" target="_blank"><img title="highexposure-gunks-2.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/highexposure-gunks-2.jpg" alt="highexposure-gunks-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Getting to High Exposure is not an easy thing. Sure, the 20-minute stroll along the Gunks’ tree-lined Carriage Road is mellow: perfectly flat with views of the Hudson River Valley to your right, and the delicious Trapps cliffline on your left. But the true crux is not stopping to climb the slew of incredible lines you’ll pass on the way: CCK, Son of Easy O, Andrew, Coexistence, Arrow ... the cliff is stacked with unforgettable, plan-your-trip-around-this, once-in-a-lifetime classic routes. Still, keep on truckin’: These lines pale in comparison to High Exposure, the climb for which the term “classic” was seemingly coined. High E was first climbed in 1941, with a hemp rope and three soft-iron pitons for pro — a visionary achievement at the time. The route’s first ascentionists, immigrants Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner, were two of the great characters in North American climbing history. Wiessner’s fame derived from his incredible climbing prowess — he is credited with FAs of routes in the 5.11 range (in Saxony and the Dolomites) as early as the 1920s. Kraus, an orthopedic surgeon by trade, was the personal back doctor to JFK, and is credited with first making the connection between exercise and health! Small wonder that it took two such men to crack High E, which begins with a nice 5.5 pitch up a steep corner system to the mile-long Grand Traverse Ledge. Here, you’ll join the crowd (and, trust me, there will be a crowd) queuing up for the main event. It’s not uncommon to wait in line here for an hour or two, but the ledge is spacious, the views breathtaking, and the entertainment constant as climbers wobble up to the giant triangular roof 25 feet above and disappear around its right side via a balancy crux move. Above this lies the section for which High E is named: a forearm-pumping, slightly overhanging 60-foot headwall that juts out 200 feet above the forest floor and looks more like 5.11 than 5.6. The holds are big, however, and there is just enough pro; if you do whip, it’ll be into fresh air. Those who’ve climbed High E usually tout it as the best 5.6 on the planet. No arguments from me. -- Jim Thornburg Five Classics Near High Exposure: Directissima 5.9 Start near High Exposure, following a ramp out right to a corner then to the belay at a small ledge. Traverse left toward the nose, then to a small belay ledge. Take the arête to the GT ledge. Finish on High E. Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope 5.8 Start right of Updraft, climbing the face through some bulges and some crack to the GT ledge. Run through a roof slightly right, veering left toward the belay of Updraft. Traverse right to a face, then into a crack until you can jump out right near the top. Arrow 5.8 Begin right of Limelight and climb a face to the GT ledge. Pass a roof leading to a white face. First ascent by O'Neill and Rezucha in 1984. Limelight 5.7 Climb the face right of Red Pillar into right-facing flakes into the GT ledge. Climb into a shallow scoop through a roof to another scoop to a roof, then traverse left until you get to a crack. The crack will take you to the top. Doubleissima 5.10 Climb vertical cracks to the Directissima belay. Take a small seam straight up, then traverse right into a roof. Climb over the roof to the GT ledge. Follow the crack to the top. Rack Beta: Friends, small stoppers, RPs, and TCUs Laserguns Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:02:07 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3492 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3492" target="_blank"><img title="highexposure-gunks-3.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/highexposure-gunks-3.jpg" alt="highexposure-gunks-3.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Getting to High Exposure is not an easy thing. Sure, the 20-minute stroll along the Gunks’ tree-lined Carriage Road is mellow: perfectly flat with views of the Hudson River Valley to your right, and the delicious Trapps cliffline on your left. But the true crux is not stopping to climb the slew of incredible lines you’ll pass on the way: CCK, Son of Easy O, Andrew, Coexistence, Arrow ... the cliff is stacked with unforgettable, plan-your-trip-around-this, once-in-a-lifetime classic routes. Still, keep on truckin’: These lines pale in comparison to High Exposure, the climb for which the term “classic” was seemingly coined. High E was first climbed in 1941, with a hemp rope and three soft-iron pitons for pro — a visionary achievement at the time. The route’s first ascentionists, immigrants Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner, were two of the great characters in North American climbing history. Wiessner’s fame derived from his incredible climbing prowess — he is credited with FAs of routes in the 5.11 range (in Saxony and the Dolomites) as early as the 1920s. Kraus, an orthopedic surgeon by trade, was the personal back doctor to JFK, and is credited with first making the connection between exercise and health! Small wonder that it took two such men to crack High E, which begins with a nice 5.5 pitch up a steep corner system to the mile-long Grand Traverse Ledge. Here, you’ll join the crowd (and, trust me, there will be a crowd) queuing up for the main event. It’s not uncommon to wait in line here for an hour or two, but the ledge is spacious, the views breathtaking, and the entertainment constant as climbers wobble up to the giant triangular roof 25 feet above and disappear around its right side via a balancy crux move. Above this lies the section for which High E is named: a forearm-pumping, slightly overhanging 60-foot headwall that juts out 200 feet above the forest floor and looks more like 5.11 than 5.6. The holds are big, however, and there is just enough pro; if you do whip, it’ll be into fresh air. Those who’ve climbed High E usually tout it as the best 5.6 on the planet. No arguments from me. -- Jim Thornburg Five Classics Near High Exposure: Directissima 5.9 Start near High Exposure, following a ramp out right to a corner then to the belay at a small ledge. Traverse left toward the nose, then to a small belay ledge. Take the arête to the GT ledge. Finish on High E. Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope 5.8 Start right of Updraft, climbing the face through some bulges and some crack to the GT ledge. Run through a roof slightly right, veering left toward the belay of Updraft. Traverse right to a face, then into a crack until you can jump out right near the top. Arrow 5.8 Begin right of Limelight and climb a face to the GT ledge. Pass a roof leading to a white face. First ascent by O'Neill and Rezucha in 1984. Limelight 5.7 Climb the face right of Red Pillar into right-facing flakes into the GT ledge. Climb into a shallow scoop through a roof to another scoop to a roof, then traverse left until you get to a crack. The crack will take you to the top. Doubleissima 5.10 Climb vertical cracks to the Directissima belay. Take a small seam straight up, then traverse right into a roof. Climb over the roof to the GT ledge. Follow the crack to the top. Rack Beta: Friends, small stoppers, RPs, and TCUs Laserguns Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:02:07 -0400 http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3481 <a href="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3481" target="_blank"><img title="spooky1-needles-251.jpg" border="0" src="http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/596/thumbs/spooky1-needles-251.jpg" alt="spooky1-needles-251.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Laserguns<br /><br />Description: Spooky, 5.9, Charlatan Needle, California Story and photos by Jim Thornburg The Needles of California dish out inspiration in spades. It’s a feeling that intensifies during the hour-long approach atop a remote, wooded ridge. The warm summer breeze quickly gives way to cold drafts that hint at deep canyons ahead, at a benevolent land changing into something darker, wilder. Then, when you see the towers, new emotions prevail: Respect? Maybe. Wonder? Probably. Apprehension? Definitely. Some say the wild green domes in the Needles are haunted by the spirits of Native Americans ... or by something even older. I like to think the two-pitch Spooky is an offering by these spirits. Rich Smith and Herb Laeger made the line’s first ascent, in 1976. Laeger, still active and cranking in the Needles today, pioneered many of the Southern Sierra’s backcountry climbs. Now, 30 years after its FA, Spooky has solidified its status as the classic 5.9 at one of California’s finest climbing areas. Spooky’s allure begins with its perfect positioning: An easy slab provides elevation and views of the surrounding walls before the hard climbing begins, with a flawless, 5.8+ corner splitter to a spacious belay. The second pitch starts with a challenging section of offwidth (this can be avoided, at stiff 5.10, via a three-bolt arête on the right) that leads into a stunning and exposed face with thin cracks before finishing with unique, airy, granite rib pinching. As you near the summit, a 360-degree panorama opens up on the tips of many of the Needles, the 5,000-foot-deep Kern River Canyon, and the distant, looming peaks of the High Sierra. In the afternoon, inky-black shadows creep across the green and yellow walls below, and the low sun gives new perspective to the stone: Formerly benign dikes morph into teeth sprouting from ghoulish faces. Indeed, the names of the domes and spires make sense in the waning light — a witch, a sorcerer, a demon, a warlock, a charlatan. Welcome to the Needles. Guidebook The out-of-print The Needles, by Sally Moeser, Greg Vernon, and Patrick Paul. Gear Mountain River Adventures in Kernville has a small selection of essentials; (760) 376-6553. Rack Bring a full set of nuts and TCUs; also, #1 (2), #2 (2), #3 (2), and #5 (1) Camalots. Five More Classics Near Spooky in the Needles of California. By Michael Reardon Stars and Stripes Forever (5.8/5.9) - Located on the west face of The Sorcerer. Just as you are about to get into the notch, drop down the gully on the west side of Charleton. About 100 feet down from the base of Spooky, near a large tree, is the start of this great line. You'll climb along these massive fins/plates for a total of two pitches with an obvious belay stance at a tree — or gear protection near it if you have something less than a 70m rope. Further down the gully are various 5.5 and 5.7 pitches that you'll be rappelling over, all of which are fun, indiscriminate lines. Gear up to 3&quot;. Airy Interlude (5.10b) - obvious horizontal crack on The Witch. When you get to the notch, The Witch is on your left. An obvious horizontal crack is the line you want to get to, but I recommend starting down in the gully to get the full flavor of the route. Need a little 5.8 sandbag pitch before getting to the dessert of what is likely the best ride of the park. Gear to #2, need three 1/2&quot; to really make the traverse pitch safe for the follower. Small gear for third belay. Rap anchors at the top. Igor Unchained (5.9) - When you walk down the gully to the base of Airy, you'll see an obvious crack that goes straight up four pitches (Airy joins the last pitch), that is Igor. Gear to three inches, massive pin is the first belay, ledge for second belay, small gear for third belay, rap anchor fourth. Inner Sanctum (5.9) - Seriously, this is one the better routes out there. Ton of exposure, and a helluva crux that you won't fall from, but you'll do some thinking. Walk down the gully until you see a wide crack up on the slab to your right. A bit further and you'll see an obvious crack that goes up to a slight roof, then blanks out a bit, before becoming a fantastic crack to the summit. Gear to 2&quot;, bring one #3 for second belay. I'd suggest a couple of small wires... The Howling (5.9/10a) - Walk past the notch over some blocks and over a dead tree and you can't miss two obvious cracks heading up on your right. First pitch is a perfect hand crack (gear to 3&quot;), second pitch is bolts. Full two 60m rope raps down. More on Spooky (5.9) - Hike to the top of Charlatan dome (just before the main notch) and rappel down from the rap anchors. Two 60m ropes, or two raps will get you to the base of this two pitch fun ride. First pitch is a bit ofslabby face followed by a perfect, thin hands crack. Second pitch starts on a wide ledge and you can either go right to the exposure and bolts, or follow the obvious off-width of ankle-biting disaster. Above that, head left along the tufas until you reach the rap anchors. Gear up to 2&quot;, with a 5&quot; for the off-width. Laserguns Fri, 18 Aug 2006 11:41:48 -0400